Wolf Willow

Let’s head away from the coast and into the interior this week. A title borrowed from Wallace Stegner, a recommendation to read the Stegner title, and some Saskatchewan memories. What brought this on? Friends from Alberta emailed us last week, catching up on recent events and checking in to see if we had plans to be in Alberta over the summer. Likely yes, and I hope we can mesh our summer schedules and meet up face to face. We’ll have to time it so we see them before or after their planned camping trip to Saskatchewan. Saskatchewan!

I have fond memories of a Saskatchewan road trip and cabin stay we did during our second summer in Canada. Big skies, long distances, empty roads, and the biggest bugs ever. Ever! Also, the week we had in our cabin provided me with some of the most restful sleep I can ever recall. Ever! It was quiet and the backroads cycling was easy. Apparently, parts of Saskatchewan are quite flat. That summer had been rainy just before we set off, so the prairies were a vibrant green and gold – and the abundant insect life was big and bold. The dragon flies were enormous, or so it seemed when cycling through them.

The following year we camped a few nights in the Cypress Hills area, a windswept and beautiful location straddling the Alberta-Saskatchewan border. We had a fun time camped down by the water, aside from some of the biggest mosquitoes ever. Ever!

A different cabin

So what about the title of the post? Wolf Willow? It just so happens I’ve been reading Wallace Stegner’s remarkable book about plains life around the end of the nineteenth and start of the twentieth century. It is a spellbinding account of the trials and tribulations of settlers heading west. It also acknowledges the terrible devastation wrought by those early settlers, on people and place.

Storms, wind, fire, hard winters, dry summers, near starvation, genocide and environmental destruction – this is not a cheery account of that life and those times. Yet Stegner loved the several years he spent there as a child. His account of being a “sensuous savage” running pretty wild with his peers is quite a contrast to the experiences of many children today. There might be an argument made for the rough and tumble of his childhood being a more meaningful experience. Many true and a few tall tales are told, the secondary heading of the complete piece being “a history, a story, and a memory of the last plains frontier.” He had many exciting and striking memories, that’s for sure.

Tough country

There is much on the nature of nature forging identity and character, how a landscape can define a person, even years after they have moved on. For all the tough times and challenging living conditions, Stegner has a real love for his brief – yet formative – years on the prairies, his family scrabbling to survive on what felt at that time like the last frontier. Or the end of the last frontier in North America.

There are any number of wonderfully descriptive prairie passages in the book. The wind is a constant companion:

“Across its empty miles pours the pushing and shouldering wind, a thing you tighten into as a trout tightens into fast water. It is a grassy, clean, exciting wind, with the smell of distance in it, and in its search for whatever it is looking for it turns over every wheat blade and head, every pale primrose, even the ground-hugging grass. It blows yellow-headed blackbirds and hawks and prairie sparrows around the air and ruffles the short tails of meadowlarks on fence posts. In collaboration with the light, it makes lovely and changeful what might be otherwise characterless.”

No need to hurry

The central part of Wolf Willow tells the story of a cattle drive undertaken just as winter approaches. This fictional account is utterly compelling, a tremendous piece of writing about fighting to stay alive in a snowstorm and do a job of work. The main character is a fresh faced romantic recently arrived from England, and he is desperate to be recognized as being stoic and hardbitten like his work colleagues. A few days of driving cattle in plummeting temperatures forces a reassessment of what he saw as a romantic life, and as for achieving the stature he believes his colleagues have? Well, you’ll have to read Wolf Willow to find out. If you do, you won’t be disappointed, although you might find some of the attitudes and prejudices from the time of writing a touch off putting. Maybe treat it as a history lesson on past social attitudes, and then enjoy the tales told.

A welcome thaw

From when we were road tripping in Saskatchewan all those years ago, a strong memory is of how friendly people were. One morning we found ourselves in the tiny town of Tisdale, a few hours northeast of Saskatoon. (As an aside, I delight in writing or saying Saskatoon or Saskatchewan. Even better, Saskatoon, Saskatchewan!) Anyway, we were lost, which is hard to do in a small rural town, but soon knew where we were when we inadvertently turned onto a street and found ourselves driving at the head of a parade. Oops. For a few minutes, we headed the floats and marching band. Those friendly townspeople clapped and cheered as we drove on up the street, and was I ever happy to turn off as soon as possible. I’d love to visit again, but I don’t want the townsfolk feeling pressured about putting on a parade…

Captivating country, and never characterless

Ah, Saskatchewan! Land of Corner Gas, a show that told us all we needed to know before heading out on that particular vacation. Corner Gas shows that life has changed on the plains since Stegner’s day! I have to say, prairie life is still a tough business, maybe not Stegner period tough, but there is something so attractive about it nonetheless. Honestly, I’m as hopelessly romantic about it as that young Englishman in Stegner’s story…

Wolf Willow was one of the first prairie shrubs I learned to recognize when we moved to Alberta. One freezing November evening, a kind botanist walked me through a river valley in the prairie edge lands as preparation for a school field trip. The Wolf Willow and Red Osier Dogwoods were a delight, each standing out, even in failing winter light. I’ll be honest, it’s easy to remember a plant with a name as captivating as Wolf Willow. (A quick search earlier revealed it isn’t a willow at all, but that’s okay…)

A good read (Image from Goodread.com)

I think I’ll leave it here, otherwise there’s a danger I could meander on like a slow and muddy river flowing in a summertime prairie valley. In Saskatchewan!

Thanks for reading, and I hope you have a wonderful weekend!

All the photographs this week are from Alberta prairie visits in previous years. I have photographs from our SK trips, but couldn’t find them this week. Maybe we need to plan another SK trip…

Published by

plaidcamper

I am a would be outdoorsman - that is if I had more time, skills and knowledge. When I can, I love being outdoors, just camping, hiking, snowboarding, xc skiing, snowshoeing, paddling a canoe or trying something new. What I lack in ability, I make up for in enthusiasm and having a go. I'd never really survive for long out there in the wild, but I enjoy pretending I could if I had to...

18 thoughts on “Wolf Willow”

  1. Wallace Stegner is one of my favorite authors of mine. I was pleasantly surprised by your post, absolutely wonderful. By the way his book, Angle of Repose mentions a spiritual community that is about 25 minutes away from me. So fun reading about the area that is nearby me. Have a wonderful weekend, cheers!

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    1. Thanks, Margaret! I enjoyed Wolf Willow and will be reading more by Wallace Stegner, including Angle of Repose. I agree, it’s always fun to read about places nearby or where you have a connection.
      I hope your weekend is going well!

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  2. Enjoyed this great time with you, PC, appreciating the people and hard times on the prairies, and Wallace Stegner. I love prairies. I grew up there and got pretty tired of the ever-flat plains, but then once I moved away, my heart eventually reached back and I visit prairies quite often. Laughed out loud at the parade scene — really funny! And I put Wolf Willow on my books-to-read list. Thanks so much, my friend, for this visit to the prairies today. Have a great weekend.

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    1. Thanks, Jet! Yes, the plains exert a pull, and sometimes you don’t feel it for a place until you get some distance away… I could never be a full time prairie resident, but love the geography and history, even if I don’t have the personal ties like you do. Well, I have the close ties to one town and the parade there…
      I hope you enjoy Wolf Willow when it gets to the top of your reading pile, and I hope your weekend has been a good one!

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  3. Yes! I have read Wallace Stegner, saw his house in Eastend where it was used as a writer’s retreat, stayed and worked two summers at a bed and breakfast in the Cypress Hills, travelled the roads through Frenchman River Valley and the middle bench, rode horses in the fields and coulees (remember the smell of the wolf willows and sage as we rode amongst them}, and visited the site of “Scotty” the T Rex that was found near Eastend. On a windy day briefly cantered “on the spot” while out on the field until the wind released us to go forward. I suggest you read Sharon Butala’s books, who also gives visual and spiritual descriptions of the land.( Perfection of the Morning). I definitely have a place in my heart for the Cypress Hills, and Warlodge Coulee on the Gap Road to Fort Walsh. Stuart McLean also talks about the characters in Maple Creek in his book , ” Welcome Home.” It is always great to read books that take me to places I have been and people I have met. Nice to see the photos.

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    1. Thanks, Jane, for the Sharon Butala recommendation, and for all the interesting prairie recollections you shared here. I hope you get back to the Cypress Hills for another visit, it seems you’ve loved the time spent there previously. I’ll have to follow upon the Stuart McLean book as well. I miss hearing him on the radio…
      Enjoy your week ahead!

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  4. This could be the best blog post on Saskatchewan, Ever! Really enjoyed your blend of prairie experience and review of Stegner’s book. I’ve been meaning to tackle his work for too long, and Wolf Willow grabs my interest. As another former prairie dweller who grew tired of it but longs to revisit whenever possible, I will look for the book, and thank you for this– another fine issue.

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    1. Thanks, Walt! I think you’ll enjoy Wolf Willow, particularly as you’re a former prairie dweller. I can never claim that, but I can understand the pull-push of those Great Plains…
      I hope your weekend has been a good one!

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  5. Great post, Adam! I am embarrassed to say that I’ve not read Stegner yet, but he’s on my short list (currently reading Camus). You have certainly piqued my interest in getting some of ol’ Wally’s work in my hands, you impromptu Grand Marshall of Prarie Parades!

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    1. Thanks, Bob! When you get the time, I think you’ll enjoy reading ol’ Wally. Embarrassed to say I’ve never read Camus…
      I hope your weekend has been a good one!

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  6. Enjoyed reading about your Saskatchewan memories and Wolf Willow!🙂 Had to smile over your reaction to the bugs and leading a parade.😁 Absolutely wonderful storytelling and photos and hope you have a chance to capture more soon! It’s been a great sports day with the UEFA Nations League Finals and the Women’s World Cup and the puck is about to drop as the Blues try to win their first Stanley Cup!🙂

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    1. Thank you! I hope the sports today continue to go well, particularly if the Bruins can eke out a win today and keep the excitement going into a game seven. As I write this, they have a slender lead. A win today, then all bets are off and may the best team win, leaving Jon Hamm slightly disappointed!
      Enjoy the next period, I hope it isn’t the last!

      Liked by 1 person

  7. It sounds absolutely wonderful and your account really brought it to life. You can waffle on all you like PC, I love your ramblings, especially when it’s about an author and book I haven’t read. Hope you’re having a great week.

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      1. The last two weeks are the hardest! Although I don’t write report cards in my current role, so I have it easier than many teachers. The Canadian school year runs from the start of September to the end of June. It’s a long summer break, and that’s fine by me!

        Liked by 1 person

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